Skip to main content

How to easily bleed a hydraulic clutch after maintenance

So you have replaced the clutch in your car. And your struggling to get a good pedal with no real progress. You’re wondering what you have done wrong. It’s not as difficult as you think. Although you may need a brake bleeding tool. It can be done with out but gets very messy without.

So what’s the secret? How difficult is it to bleed a hydraulic clutch?

Well the truth is, there is no secret! Oh and it’s really easy. Here’s the simple guide.

  1. Always ensure the master cylinder is full of brake fluid. Be aware from personal experience sometimes you think the brake resovior is full but in fact it isn’t.  I have discovered these generally have two or more chambers. This resulted in the brake fluid not flowing through affecting the inability to bleed the clutch and or brakes. Sometimes it’s difficult to see the fluid, a good tip is to use a inspection lamp held up to the resovior allows easier assessment of brake fluid level. 
  2. Open the bleed valve at slave cylinder and attach bleed tool  now simply pump clutch pedal about a dozen times. Then lock off clutch bleed valve.  That should be it if you have a good pedal. If not read on.
  3. So you don’t have a pedal?  Pump it a few times, you should have at least a small amount of pedal.if not repeat no two. Now you need to repeatedly pump pedal about 10 times the hold it down 30 seconds, keep repeating, have a rest between and leave and come back and try again. You should find it gets slightly better every time.
  4. Now you have some pedal repeatedly pump pedal and hold down pedal with a pedal holding tool for a few hours. You should find when you return the pedal is good as new.
  5. This smashes all the air bubbles into micro bubbles, then these over time find there way out of the hydraulic system.
Please subscribe for many more helpful articles.



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Vauxhall vivaro and movano knocking or banging noise on front.

I have recently experienced on the vauxhall vivaro and movano on two occasions these models have had a really bad knocking or banging noise. After initial inspection nothing has been found.  Firstly, It’s worth noting at this point that these models are prone to the front top suspension mounting collapsing. This can be simply be diagnosed by looking at the top mount under the bonnet. If faulty the will be a significant gap and it will also be slightly offset. Not central. After inspection this is what happens to the top mounts. Secondly, If this is not the cause of the noise and after frustration trying to find find the noise it is worth checking and tightening all the subframe bolts and wishbone bolts. These may appear tight and show no signs of wear. Once completed road test and listen. Hopefully now the knocking will have gone. 

Skoda 1.6 tdi timing tensioner failure Part one

This week was interesting. Having replaced this belt a couple of years ago on a Skoda Octavia 1.6 Diesel,the customer came in with a terrible noise. So it was time to investigate. As you can see from the pictures upon stripping it down I was horrified by what I saw. As you can clearly see the bearing as totally failed. It was surprising to know this car was actually running. Totally amazed that it was running.  You can see that the heat from the faulty bearing has over heated melting the plastic on the tensioner. Here you can see it after removal. The obvious thing to do now was replace the timing belt kit using the correct Volkswagen  locking tools to see how it runs. OK so I will put you out of suspense. The car runs but makes a terrible noise. So unfortunately for the customer the Skoda will be stripped for further investigation. I have no doubt there will be internal damage but I expected this anyway.  I will follow up with this in a future

PSA 1.2 Puretech oil pressure fault. P15a8.

f you own a car with the PSA 1.2 Puretech Engine then this post is for you.  This engine is fitted to many vehicles including   Ford, Peugeot, Citroen, and Vauxhall’s  It has come apparent that these engines fault at about 40k miles.  The symptoms. 1. Upon almost first few accelerations from setting off the engine light comes on.  2. The vehicle odometer near 40k or multiples of.  3. Flagging fault P15A8 on diagnostic tool. This is a oil pressure fault   The problem.  This engine although a good engine with some fantastic technology built in has a timing belt that is inside the engine.  This may have seemed a good idea to the designers but it deteriorates in the engine oil, flaking off and clogs and blocking the oil pick up. If left could end up in major engine failure.  The solution.  Quite simple really, remove sump (easy task) check and clean oil pick up. Then change cambelt. Quite a Job.  If you want to see how to diagnose and solve this on your psa 1.2 Puretech Engine i have made